For the Imperial Fists, I wanted to go with a stoic model with a relatively static pose to exemplify the Fists’ stalwart nature. I far prefer this to the effect I get from painting it over Averland, which is sort of brownish.This is a Reaver titan I’m working on as an example.
As such, we will be looking at two airbrush methods as well as a contrast method that are all hopefully fairly simple to do. I've had mixed results with contrast. You currently have javascript disabled. Iyanden yellow with a relatively light drybrush with one of the yellows (either the base or layer paint determines a lighter or darker tone) works great to make a nice solid scheme without the blotchiness.So, here are my results so far (from left to right):3.
So here we go.As I mentioned, the original idea for this project was to paint a Lieutenant for each of the three chapters I’m covering. Hello! Matte varnish once it’s done.I don’t always do too many highlights, usually just characters and the very highest points on infantry and vehicles. Get a good smooth coat, it’ll make pinwashing and decals much easier.Decals want to go on relatively early in the process, that way any weathering done is over top of them, blending them in. But I think I just need a little bit more practice.Edit: I think Iyanden is the best Contrast paint for Fists.I have experimented with various contrast paints on various bases. I've used Iyanden over wraithbone spray for vehicles and it is fantastic, it gets rid of the previous problems that I had with patchy colouring on large surface areas. As has been noted, the Imperial Fists are a codex-compliant chapter. As you can see, it’s a much warmer result and is also quite fast. Like an oil wash it can be cleaned up with white spirits as needed. 1st it seams the only 2 contrast yellows are iyanden and nazdreg. The shinier the better. You would think they wanted me to do work or something....
I follow that up with Rhinox Hide across any edges or wear areas, modulating the intensity depending on how much wear that would take. Below, you will find a lovely example of ForgeWorld’s Dorn model painted by our very own Booley. (just for comparison) Undercoated with AP Daemonic Yellow spray, followed by a wash with Cassandora Yellow and Dorn Yellow edge highlight.
He has chosen to go with warmer tones, like Richyp, which definitely changes the feel of the whole mini, as well as using heavy weathering to both tie the model to the base and better define edges.Imperial Fists Captain Tor Garadon. In fact, two of the three examples you’re about to see feature this motif. This is applied primarily to the undersides of arms, kneepads, and the bottom third of shoulder pads, but also sparingly anywhere else shadows would build up. Frankly, they don’t get a whole lot of attention and as such as not particularly well developed. With the release of Codex Supplement: Imperial Fists, their bolt weapons got tuned up to 11 – the Fists are all about chewing targets up in a rain of fire. It captures the Space Marine, and Imperial Fists, ethos in a really understated way.
It’s fantastic.As I already mentioned, the Fists don’t get a ton of attention and this extends to Black Library. Obviously will not work on black since you want the opposite effect. Sergeant helmets are red, with a white stripe to indicate veterancy and Lieutenant helmets are yellow with a white and red stripe. AP spray was a PITA to use, so I'm not gonna do it again (unless maybe I decide to buy an airbrush).The shadows look better (darker) with the Contrast method IMO, but it's a little bit harder to keep from pooling. Usually shoulders will take me 4 or 5 applications of Microsol (Take some Burnt Umber oil paints and thin them into a wash. Take a look at this excellent After giving your oils at least a few hours to dry, matte varnish the entire thing and go to town painting details.Imperial Fists Primaris Eradicators. This is a completely different approach to the same chapter, using GW’s new CONTRAST paints. Painting Imperial Fists with Contrast: The Richyp Method. I use Scale 75 Lilith Yellow as a nice bright pale yellow.Weathering is in a couple stages, all done with a sponge. Several functions may not work. I start taking a little bit of GW Phalanx Yellow and sponging it very lightly over decals.